• Why I Attended Five Interactive Play Workshops (So Far)

    At first I went along because I’d caught the ‘workshop bug’ and the topic sounded intriguing. I’d been told on a working dog holiday that I didn’t play with my dog. What do you mean, I thought, we train a lot and training is play. Besides, a Lab will never play like a Shepherd. My dog doesn’t even tug!

    The truth was, I’d caught him tugging with a friend of mine… It was me he didn’t tug with. I had never encouraged it because of the old ‘keep ’em soft mouthed’ myth from the gundog world. There is, of course, a genetic predisposition to what a dog chooses to do when it picks up an object, but he hadn’t been a ‘deliverer’ when we first started gundog training. Now I’d try to interact over a toy and he’d just hand it over. Yes, we played rough and tumble without toys, but he was controlled and cautious, and I wouldn’t want him to be different when we play like that. Inspired by one of Susan Garrett’s programmes, I’d tried to build up to tugging, but he was hesitant and I lacked confidence.

    My first interactive play workshop with Craig Ogilvie was the inspiration I needed. It helped me see my dog’s chase drive and learn that the game didn’t have to stop if my dog lost interest – what an eye-opener! – and how to prevent him losing interest in the first place. I returned home feeling positive about having made progress with my dog, and determined to host Craig’s workshops here in Surrey. Fast forward almost a whole year, and Craig has been our guest instructor more than once. He will be back. I’ve also attended some of his events hosted by others.

    Here’s why I would take any opportunity for an interactive play workshop:

    • We work just where we’re at and receive just the coaching we need, since everybody gets to have one-to-one time with Craig during the workshop. We’ve made progress since last time, hence this time we focus on something else.
    • I grow as a handler. I gain confidence to push boundaries, many of which Craig pointed out weren’t there in the first place. I’m lucky to work with two dogs with different genetics, temperaments, drive, motivation and level of maturity. And of course it’s helpful to watch a variety of others in action with their dogs.
    • Craig is a great coach. I feel positive and motivated after each workshop. I understand better the why, what and how. Of course Craig could easily get my dog to play with him. Have you ever struggled in a class and the trainer got hold of our dog and made it perform beautifully for them? It doesn’t help. Craig goes beyond that. He may give the dog a twirl to assess or demonstrate, but his work is about getting getting YOU to succeed with your dog.
    • Craig is also a great speaker. Before his talk I doubted that he could match what he did in the practical workshops. But he did! His key note talk was enthusiastic, involved, entertaining and fun. It set the context beautifully for subsequent practical sessions.
    • Last but not least, for those left gasping for air from the running around – it gets easier! I’m no fitter, but the more I understand the principles, the better I manage my physical energy. I’m even starting to have some spare brain power left to put in practice what Craig says to me.

     

  • Puppy Photography

    Guest blog by Alice Loder

    Photographing puppies can be a challenge. Just like children, puppies are easily distracted, extremely hyperactive and have short bursts of energy before they get bored and need a battery recharge. However, puppies are one of the most rewarding subjects. Not only because they change so quickly, giving the images a quality and timelessness, but also because the challenge really does pay off when you successfully capture all of that cuteness in one image.

    Puppies are not like dogs. Whether you are a photographer or a pet owner wanting to photograph your new arrival, no matter how much experience of photographing, you cannot apply the same techniques to puppies as you do adult dogs.

     

    1.Safety

    Puppies have delicate immune systems. Whether the owner chooses to vaccinate their puppy or not, it is important to be careful where you do the photo shoot. Very busy public places can be a higher risk of passing on nasty bugs and diseases, so go for a quieter and less populated location for puppies who haven’t had adequate exposure. Be also careful putting the puppy where it can jump off or get hold of things they can chew (including your equipment).

     

    2. Don’t set the bar too high

    Puppies are not accustomed to the same things as dogs, so taking a puppy out can create unpredictable reactions. Be aware that your puppy may find props, backgrounds, or something as simple as standing on a log scary. Whilst it’s great to have ideas of what you’d like to create, be realistic. If your puppy wants to run around instead of crossing its paws and tilting its head then go with it, save yourself frustration and the puppy a negative experience.

     

    3. Don’t do too much too soon

    It’s one of the biggest mistakes people make. Puppies, whilst they have a lot of energy, only have short bursts of it. So if you do action shots or play don’t do too much, or when it comes to getting the puppy to stay still or pose they will be tired and fed up.

     

    4. Use a longer lens

    Anything in a puppies face is edible. Therefore distance is your friend; it is also great for getting puppy to run back to you for some quick action shots!

     

    5. Be patient

    Puppies very rarely understand what you want. Whether it’s getting them to sit still, hold something in their mouth or run towards you, you need to expect to have to try a few times before you get the result. When it comes to making noises to get your puppy’s attention it’s important to not overdo it when one works. If you find a noise that makes puppy tilt his/her head save it for when you have the perfect shot lined up.

     

    The most important thing to remember, have fun! Don’t put too much pressure on yourself and puppy to perform and you will find that with patience and fun you will get some creative shots to cherish before they get too big.

    Alice Loder is an international multi-award winning photographer specialising in canine and equine portraiture. Her passion is creating natural portraits capturing the essence of an animal’s character, challenging stereotypes and exploring the unknown. Alice is based in the UK travelling worldwide offering both corporate and private photo shoots, workshops, one-to-one tuition, branding and one-off original prints.

    One of her awards is Kennel Club Dog Photographer Of The Year 2014.

    Web: Alice Loder Photography | Facebook: Alice Loder Photography | Instagram: @aliceloderphotography

    Look up Alice’s photography workshop at Enjoy Your Dog on our Events page.

  • A Dozen Things You Should Know Before Adopting a Rescue Dog

    Guest blog by David Ryan

    1. She will not be grateful for you adopting her. Why should she? You are just one more thing that has happened to her over which she had no control, some of which have been worse than others. She may come to love you and her new home in time but don’t expect gratitude for “rescuing” her, because she doesn’t understand what you did.

    2. Adopting an adult is not easier than adopting a new puppy. Okay, she may be house-trained (but not necessarily in your house) and not need to toilet through the night, but you are dealing with a dog that already has expectations of how you will behave towards her and re-learning how to respond is more difficult than first learning. Initially you should be prepared to put in at least as much time and effort as you would with a puppy.

    3. She does not know your rules. She has lived with some human rules before (maybe – maybe not if you import a street-dog) but they won’t be the same as yours. Where is she allowed? On the carpet? On the sofa? On the bed? On your knee? When, where and what is she allowed to eat? Food dropped on the floor? Free wild-food (horse manure and squirrels)? Your petunias? She will do what she has done before and, again, re-learning is harder than first learning.

    4. She does not know you from Adam (especially if you keep wearing that fig leaf). Why should she do what you say? Because you rescued her (see 1 above)? She may take time to love you and maybe six months before she trusts you (if ever, depending upon what has happened to her previously). She won’t necessarily want to come back to you when you call her – especially if something more interesting/edible/worrying/fun is happening over there.

    5. She will not automatically get on with your other dog/ cat/ hamster/ child/ husband/ hair-dryer/ vacuum cleaner/ traditional training methods… Dogs are individuals with personalities. Many dogs can accommodate changes and adapt accordingly but this will need time and effort. Sometimes some just can’t.

    6. She is not your last dog. She may have the same number of legs and cute floppy ears, but she is not a replica of any dog you have ever had. She can replace the place in your heart that your last dog left empty, but she cannot replicate them – even if she is the spitting image – so don’t expect her to.

    7. She will have odd habits (perhaps amusing, or disgusting). People allow or encourage their pets to do the weirdest things: taking food from her bowl and bringing it into the living room to eat one piece at a time, licking the plates in the dishwasher, licking her bum then your face (kisses for mummy!) or re-eating vomit (more kisses!) –  and the dog might consider these normal.

    8. People lie. Or at least are economical with the truth. Do not believe everything on the form the previous owner filled in. They were trying to get their dog adopted and may have glossed over what they think might be her faults – especially if they feel embarrassed about them. Q. Where does she sleep? A. In the kitchen (for the first five minutes until she sneaks upstairs and spends the night in bed with me). Q. What does she eat? A. “GoodBoy!” dog kibble (after I’ve mixed minced beef and gravy with it and fed it to her on a spoon).

    9. Rescue societies aren’t perfect. They do their best to match dogs with owners, but might not know that the dog you’re adopting has a tendency to howl the house down when left (the previous owner might not have mentioned it) or that she chews shoes, or hates postmen, or humps cushions or… You might need to work with her a bit…

    10. She WILL be stressed when she arrives. The most stressful life events for humans are the loss of a loved one and moving home. She’s just experienced both at once (regardless of how bad they were). She is in a new place with odd rules, which she worries about getting wrong. This will make her nervous and less tolerant of being pestered (for example by dogs on walks or by visiting children). She will feel apprehensive and defensive. Give her a break. Be hyper-attentive of her needs. Does she need to walk away from that yappy dog? Does she need a treat to reward her for coming away? She needs guidance (Guide & Control). Provide it for her before her stress levels tip her into using problematic behaviour. In time her stress will ease as she becomes used to her new situation.

    12. She may have a Honeymoon Period. No, not giggly holding hands with flowers, champagne and chocolates, but because she stressed and everything is new, she might not do anything at all for a while (varies but about a month isn’t unusual). Then, when she’s sussed out the new place and folks, she will revert to how she has behaved previously. This might be some forms of problematic behaviour that resulted in her being given up for adoption in the first place. Don’t be another human that gives up on her – work with her.

    12. Treat her right and she will bring you joy. There isn’t a day that will pass that she won’t make you smile – probably when she tries to help you rebury the daffodils she has just proudly dug up for you. Or when the postman pats her on the head and says, “What a nice dog, where did you get her?”

    David Ryan was a police dog handler and Home Office accredited instructor for 26 years, helping to lead the revolution in professional dog training out of the ‘push, pull and shout’ methods. He was the first police dog instructor to be awarded Southampton University’s postgraduate diploma in companion animal behaviour counselling and also the first to be accepted as a full member of the Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors, serving as Chair from 2009 to 2012. He is certified as a Clinical Animal Behaviourist by the independent Association for the Study of Animal Behaviour and has a unique blend of practical experience and theoretical knowledge of canine behaviour.

    Now retired from the police service, he helps local charities with their more problematic dogs. He has presented educational study days for the Companion Animal Behaviour Therapy Study Group and the Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors and has lectured at the Wood Green Animal Shelter, Battersea Dogs and Cats Home and to BSc animal behaviour students at Myerscough College and Bishop Burton College. He is currently a visiting lecturer on Newcastle University’s MSc in Applied Animal Behaviour and Welfare.

    David appears as a legal expert witness in canine behaviour in civil and criminal cases and has been an independently verified member of the Register of Expert Witnesses since 2008. He is regularly instructed in cases involving alleged pit bull terriers, dogs alleged to have been dangerously out of control, cases of negligence and those involving the 1971 Animals Act, and cases where interpretation of police dogs and their handling are required.

    David has written and published four books and contributed to a fifth: Guide & Control Your Pet Dog’s Behaviour, Dogs that Bite and Fight, Dog Secrets, “Stop!” How to Control Predatory Chasing in Dogs and Chapter 2, Our relationship with dogs in David Appleby’s The APBC Book of Companion Animal Behaviour.

    David’s website: Dog Secrets

    You can book David’s Dogs That Bite and Fight seminar at Enjoy Your Dog on our Events page.

  • Black Dog Photography

    Guest blog by Alice Loder

    Black dogs come in different colours! Varying amounts of hair, size and physical characteristics, environment, light conditions and the dog’s nature all contribute to making black dogs a photographer’s nightmare.

    This doesn’t have to be the case. Go out armed with these tools and have fun!

     

    1. Avoid direct sun

    Don’t assume that because a black dog is dark, more light will show up all those gorgeous tiny details. In bright direct sunlight your camera will be unable to expose both the highlights and the lowlights. You’ll end up with a high contrast, blocky image that shows little more than a black dog with no eyes or tone, against a garish overblown background.

    Tackle this by bringing your black dog into a large shaded area i.e. under a big tree, under softer light, which will evenly light your dog allowing all of the tonal detail and coat shine to appear. Indoors, use a window with netting that will diffuse the light creating gorgeous soft highlights.

    Top tip: find an area where the light changes in the background, with ‘light rays’. Put your dog a few metres in front of them, to create a lovely sense of depth and shape in the background, drawing the attention to the dog.

     

    2. Choose your moment

    In the summer most photographers favour early morning and late evening. The 20 to 30 minutes after sunrise and before sunset (depending on the season and latitude) are referred to as ‘the golden hour’ (or ‘civil twilight’), when the sun is lower and therefore illuminates the atmosphere creating stunning colours. Just after sunset, the colours of the sky change most rapidly. Clouds in the West are illuminated by orange-red sunlight, while the ones in the East remain blue and indigo.

    Aside from the obvious gorgeous colours in the sky, the light becomes diffused and soft. During the summer months when you’re already battling hard light and it’s too hot for your black canine friend, photographing during just before sunset or sunrise means you are not restricted to shady areas. Your dog won’t overheat so less wagging tongues and more action shots!

    Top tip: Take advantage of the colours that the sun can create. If a gorgeous red appears, find colours in the background to compliment or even contrast against this. Fern, sand and tree bark are brilliant backgrounds to use during a warm golden summer sunset as they bring out all tones and textures around the dog.

     

    3. Add water

    We have covered how to manipulate light from above and to the side. But you might still end up with a nicely lit face resting on a big black blob and no definition in the chest or body. Interesting but subtle ‘bibs’ or other white markings can easily be lost.

    The choice of background can have a huge effect on the overall success of an image. Nature gives us many tools and one of them is water. A nice reflective puddle can be your best friend. Water not only creates gorgeous reflections, which can be artistic, quirky and unusual but is a natural reflector.

    Top tip: use a small puddle to one side of the dog and crop the legs out to create a nicely lit portrait where you can’t see the light source. Or go to town and take advantage of the atmosphere, shape and colours that water can produce. Not to the mention the lovely shine that a wet coat can create on sleeker breeds.

     

    4. A great pair of eyes

    An owner of a black (or dark) dog will know just how much those eyes can tell you, the simplicity of black and gold when put together is a colour combination that gets everybody excited. Many of the most emotive portraits of dogs are done using a simple background and a black dogs because when you take out all of the ‘clutter’ and distraction of colour and setting and you just focus on the expression and charisma that a dogs eyes can give you, you can create simple, beautiful art that gets every owner feeling goose bumps.

    So how do we go about getting those eyes bright and twinkly? We have covered light from above, from one side and from below. For a dog with a lot of hair or much smaller eyes, when light still can’t quite get to the dog, use extra light. Wear white, use flash or add a light from a torch, iPhone etc, to create a reflection and get that ‘twinkly’ look.

    Fun fact: a study, by Miho Nagasawa of Azabu University in Japan, 2009, found owners and dogs sharing a long mutual gaze had higher levels of oxytocin (the ‘cuddle drug’) than owners of dogs giving a shorter gaze.

     

    5. Consider stereotypes and breed specific characteristics

    ‘Black dog syndrome’ is about black dogs believed to be the ones less likely to be adopted from shelters and rescue charities. Studies conducted haven’t confirmed, but haven’t disproved the theory either. They showed however that location and surrounding areas have a lot of influence on the success rate of black dogs. Why?

    Films, stories and songs hugely influenced the creation of stereotypes and superstitions around dark faces. Many films use dark-faced dogs with pointy ears and wolf-like features for negative effect. In animations, certain dark-faced breeds portray the ‘baddies’, while the softer faced, floppy eared breeds are the ‘good guys’. Some cultures believe dogs to be evil, and there is reason to believe that the inability to distinguish the eyes can create negativity around facial expression, body language and general subconscious assumptions.

    To draw attention to the positive qualities of darker faces, remove negative characteristics as much as possible. Panting and showing teeth, ears back tightening the forehead and causing eyes to look sharper or low head poses with a strong eye contact can all create a dominant or imposing impression. Looking up at the camera, lying down, heads tilting, or looking past the camera can draw attention to more subtle characteristics of stereotyped breeds.

     

    6. Take perspective

    This involves doing anything other than what you would usually do.

    Extreme angles are more aesthetically pleasing than ‘in between’ angles or those we are used to seeing with our own eyes. Lie on the ground and look up at the dog, to create a fun artistic silhouette and use the dark canvas to your advantage. Look directly down at the dog to create a different perspective and add a nice reflection of the sky in the eyes.

     

    7. No tongues!

    Tongues mean kisses when it comes to your pet, but in a photograph only lead to big blobs of pink and maybe slobber and drool. With a black canvas any vibrant colour stands out, so dogs will look extremely ‘mouthy’. Drooling black dogs are even less appealing, dribble and slobber reflect light creating a sparkle where it’s not wanted.

    Keep your dog hydrated and have a hand tissue when out and about to rectify this.

     

    8. Brown or blue? 

    Using the colours around the dog carefully can either compliment or distract from the natural colours of that individual dog.

    When it comes to complimentary lighting and backgrounds, dogs with more of a brown hue can have less shine to their coat and can benefit from contrasting colours such as green or blue. Dogs with a silvery blue tinge to their coat can really compliment golden and red colours around them. If a black dog with a slightly browner coat is put around warmer colours it accentuates the brownish red tones in their coat and can make them look almost liver coloured.

     

    9. Position your dog

    This will help you create more perspective and detail.

    Getting a dog to lie down can cause the body to become one big shape, while a sit or down with paws on something helps to break up the overall shape and allow light to show up the different curves and lines of the dog’s body. Instead of looking head-on at a dog with a white chest try sitting the dog at an angle with its chest facing diagonally towards you and the white area creating a break.

     

    10. Prepare

    You can make a difference without expensive equipment or a whole team of lighting technicians around you.

    Wear white or light clothing. A simple white top can help to reflect enough light to get a twinkle in the eye on a nice day, just make sure you wash out the muddy paw prints afterwards!

    A piece of cardboard covered in foil will also act as a good reflector to pop under the dog to reflect light under the chin and onto the chest, or to prop against something to reflect onto the dog.

    Make sure your dog is clean, dirty dogs don’t shine. No need to bathe your dog every time you take them out, but a simple brush over will push the oils down the hair and make the ends a little shinier. For dogs with longer hair that can naturally be quite dull you can buy simple products for creating shine and sparkle. Make sure these are dog friendly and brush them out afterwards as they can be quite oily.

    Black dog photography is just like all photography: reduce the unwanted factors and increase your chances of success.

    Alice Loder is an international multi-award winning photographer specialising in canine and equine portraiture. Her passion is creating natural portraits capturing the essence of an animal’s character, challenging stereotypes and exploring the unknown. Alice is based in the UK travelling worldwide offering both corporate and private photo shoots, workshops, one-to-one tuition, branding and one-off original prints.

    One of her awards is Kennel Club Dog Photographer Of The Year 2014.

    Web: Alice Loder Photography | Facebook: Alice Loder Photography | Instagram: @aliceloderphotography

    Look up Alice’s photography workshop at Enjoy Your Dog on our Events page.

  • Therapy Dogs Nationwide

    An interview with Eileen Hodge, co-founder, trustee of Therapy Dogs Nationwide and a volunteer herself.

     

    How did it all start?

    Having volunteered  for many years using my dogs for therapy myself and friends, I realised something was missing, the camaraderie and openness that we had should be for everyone. I decided to take advice and talk to others who had similar or more experience, and Therapy Dogs Nationwide started to grow. Our mission statement  is ‘A charity run by volunteers, for volunteers, to support them in what they do best’.

     

    What would be a typical situation for one of your therapy dogs to attend?

    There are quite a few typical situations as we visit a cross section of the community. I will give you two from my personal experience.

    Visiting a care home so the residents can hold, stroke and talk to my small dog, they start to chat about pets they had as youngsters or before they came to the home. There are so many smiles and fond memories. For the bed ridden he sits on their bed and snuggles up whilst being stroked and more often than not has a little snooze.

    Another is going into school to help the children with their reading but also with any behavioural problems. Groups of children will come and sit with the dog  and read their books. We don’t correct them but will help with sounding the word and it doesn’t matter if they get it wrong, the dog can’t spell! Also in school there are children with specific problems (behavioural or social and emotional) who benefit greatly from spending time with the dogs. Just sitting and stroking calms them down if they are ‘hyper’ but on the other hand if they are sad or unhappy they can play games and learn how to react round dogs and other animals. It is a medical fact that stroking an animal lowers your blood pressure markedly and also releases endorphins  in your brain (the happy hormones).

     

    Are you looking for more dogs? If so, what sort? Any preferences on breed, size, temperament?

    We desperately need more volunteers with their dogs as we have a number of places on our waiting list.

    We accept any size, any breed. We have Chihuahuas to Leonbergers and a Great Dane. Our stipulation is that the dog is over nine months old and has been with the owner for six months. They undergo a temperament assessment with one of our trained assessors which takes around 45 minutes.  If you have a well behaved dog you will be likely to pass an assessment. The dog doesn’t have to like other dogs either, just to love humans. We also have Staffies, and Rottweillers, a real cross section. Also they have to be well presented, nails clipped well groomed etc and have all up to date vaccinations or homeopathic equivalent.

     

    How do the owners and the dogs find it? Is it a big commitment?

    All our volunteers will tell you how much satisfaction they get out of their visits with their dogs. Watching your dog help others and bring joy is the best feeling in the world.

    The commitment is whatever you want to make it. We have volunteers that visit establishments 7 days a week and other maybe once a fortnight or once a month. The average is around two or three visits a week. The volunteer chooses how much they want to do but we do ask that however many times they go it has to be regularly as people are relying on them coming. Full time volunteers will do their visits on a Saturday or a Sunday or if it is convenient with establishment in an evening. We also have VIP supporters who haven’t a dog who will give talks for us or accompany us on talks and awareness days. These are normally at weekends or evenings.

    As far as the dog is concerned they will tell you whether they are happy  in any given situation. I have 3 therapy dogs, all love working with children but only one like visiting the residential home. Owners will know their own dogs, and owner and dog have both got to be happy in where they visit. They can change where they visit at any time if they are unhappy and we will support them in whatever they decide.

     

    How can somebody interested become a volunteer? Is any additional training required?

    If anyone is interested in becoming a volunteer with their dog they should Email enquiries@therapydogsnationwide.org or write to Beryl Scholes, 14 Maes-y-Bryn, Berthengam, Flintshire CH8 9BA , or they can ring for a chat 07840 994 003.

    There is no specific training involved but having attended  training classes at a local pet obedience club is beneficial, as is the Kennel Club Good Citizen Scheme. We want well behaved, socially acceptable, friendly, lovable dogs which is what most responsible dog owners have.

     

    Website: http://therapydogsnationwide.org/
    Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/therapydogsnationwide
    Twitter: https//twitter.com/TherapyDogsUK

  • A Little Win from Everyday

    Guest blog by Craig Ogilvie

    As dog lovers we all have a set of goals that we would like to achieve as a team with our canine companions. Our goals will naturally vary depending on our lifestyle and aspirations.

    Whether your goals are to work together with you dog to earn a first place or to help your dog become your perfect companion, here are few guidelines to help you map out your path to success.

    Firstly, become very clear and specific on the goals that you would like to achieve with your dog. Once you are clear on your goals write them down on a piece of paper and stick the piece of paper in a place so that you will see them every day. This will give you a clear set of goals to work towards.

    Secondly, take each one of your goals and separate it in to as many little steps as possible. Often if we just have one huge goal that we strive towards with our dogs we can become overwhelmed by the task at hand and lose focus. Breaking your goals down in this way will give you the ability to work together as a team with your dog towards a part of each of your goals every day.

    Thirdly, be sure to take a little win away from every day. What do I mean? By following this plan your goals will be laid out step by step. You will not have to spend hours at one-time training with your dog to work towards your goals. Instead you can structure short positive training sessions at times of the day to suit your lifestyle. Try not to focus on the duration of your training sessions, instead focus on the quality of what you have covered during the session.

    Focus on taking a little win away from each training session in the form of a positive step forward. This will mark a positive end to each little training session and leave you both eager to start the next session.

    Big goals are achieved as part of a process that involves lots of little wins. If you and your dog take a little win away from every day together there will be no stopping you.

    Craig Ogilvie makes you the centre of your dog’s world. Having spent a great deal of time training and testing working dogs in locations all over Europe, he very quickly went on to achieve unique accreditation. He is the first and only person from the UK to be licensed to test and train dogs internationally in the working dog sport called Mondioring, which consists of Obedience, Agility and Criminal Apprehension. He is one of the very few experienced and qualified civilian Police Dog Training instructors in the UK, a dog behaviour practitioner, seminar leader, author, and public speaker. His passion and study of training, interacting and communicating with dogs led to his discovery of the Interactive Play Experience and How To Become The Centre Of Your Dog’s World. He has been delivering his systems worldwide via sell out workshops, seminars and online training, helping dog lovers all over the world to achieve their goals.

    Web: Love for Dogs  |  Facebook: Craig Ogilvie | Instagram: @craigogilvielfd

    See dates for Craig’s talks and workshops at Enjoy Your Dog on our Events page!

  • The Nose Knows

    A couple of years ago I embarked on the fascinating journey of scentwork with my dog. We started with search dog training, to find missing people, and have since added other scent games to our repertoire. Compared to Mr Nose, who was born with this skill, I’ve only scratched the surface, but I’m hooked.

    Dogs’ sense of smell exceeds that of humans more than we can imagine, they experience most of the world through their nose, like we do through our eyes. I’m still smiling at the memory of watching my friend’s puppy on a mission, working his way forward, his nose in the air, while the horse manure we both knew he was after was in full sight. But puppy was in scent mode!

    Now imagine out of sight sources and the smallest traces of scent from them. Our dogs rule when it comes to that. They help detect cancer, locate disaster victims, find illegal drugs and so much more. There are only two things we need to do: get them interested and focused on working with us on solving the puzzle, and learn to interpret what they tell us – start seeing things from their point of view.

    You may not want to train a service dog, but you can do scentwork for fun any time, and here’s why I think it’s great:

    • Any dog with a nose can do it. Puppies can start young, because their sense of smell is already there, whereas for other training they still have to grow physically and mentally. It’s ideal for dogs recovering from an injury or for older dogs where exercise levels are limited but there’s a need for mental stimulation. It can focus reactive or easily distracted dogs and provide an outlet for hyperactive dogs. It can help shy dogs gain confidence, because this time they’re in control.
    • Our dogs already know this game. It’s our turn to learn to trust them.
    • It wears them out, in a good way. Most dogs will be more affected by half an hour searching than a three-hour walk. Scentwork may not be physically demanding, but it takes so much concentration, the brain will need a good rest afterwards. Fido will be in happy dreamland for a while.
    • Possibilities are endless. Scentwork can be done indoors or outdoors, in any setting, with other people involved or just handler and dog. Equipment needed is minimal and low cost. Some days I keep it as simple as hiding a tennis ball while out on a walk, on others we explore step-by-step tracking. We do, of course, have our preferred scentwork game (it’s quite serious when we look for people), but we also have an option to search for lost coins when we’re bored at the pub.
    • It’s fun. Dogs can find scentwork rewarding for the sake of it. I have seen my dog ignore favourite food and favourite people while on a mission.
    • It builds a good relationship. I need my dog to solve a puzzle I couldn’t solve by myself, and he needs me to read and handle him to set him up to succeed – we’re a team.

    I’d love to hear how scentwork has made a difference to you and your dog. You can add a comment below.

    If you haven’t yet explored what your dog’s nose knows, buy a book, find a class, attend a workshop (we’re running our tracking foundation workshop again in February), and most of all, enjoy your dog!

  • Canine First Aid Kits – a Vet Nurse’s Guide

    Guest blog by Rachel Bean

    Choose a First Aid Kit that is fit for purpose. I have designed a Kit with the following contents:

     

    1 Non adherent dressing pads, 5cm x 5cm 2 Non adherent dressing pads 10cm x 10cm

    1 Foil blanket adult size

    1 Tick Remover in Blister Pack – inc 2 wipes

    1 Conforming bandage 5cm x 4m, 1 Conforming bandage 7.5cm x 4m

    1 Conforming bandage 10cm x 4m, 1 Latex free cohesive bandage 5cm x 4m white

    2 Latex free cohesive bandage 7.5cm x 4m white

    1 Latex free cohesive bandage 10cm x 4m white 5 Moist saline cleansing wipes sterile

    1 Vinyl powder-free medium single pair of gloves.

    3 Eye wash pods 20ml

    1 Cotton gauze swabs BP 7.5cm x 7.5cm pk of 5 sterile

    1 Scissors curved stainless steel

    1 Instant ice packs Forceps plastic non sterile 4.5″

    1 Digital Thermometer

    1 Microporous tape 2.5cm x 5m unboxed

    1 Zinc oxide plaster tape 2.5cm x 5m white

    1 Torniquet

    1 Hand Crank Torch

    Rachel Bean is a Qualified Veterinary Nurse and has worked in Veterinary Practice for 18 years. She is a listed and Registered Veterinary Nurse with The Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons.

    Rachel is also the consultant behaviourist at the Northwest newest and largest Canine Hydrotherapy Centre, K9 Swim. She won Pet Health Counsellor of the Year in 2004 and has a certificate in Companion Animal Behaviour issued by The British Veterinary Nursing Association.

    Web: www.rachelbean.co.uk | Facebook: Canine First Aid Workshops

    Find Rachel’s Canine First Aid workshop at Enjoy Your Dog on our Events page.

  • How to Choose a Canine First Aid Workshop

    Guest blog by Rachel Bean

    Have you ever thought about what you would do if your dog had an accident in the home or out on a walk, had a cut paw or was accidentally poisoned? What would you do before you arrived at the vet’s?

    Do you want to be better prepared?

    It is becoming increasingly popular to gain First Aid knowledge and it will give a dog owner or dog carer the skills to save a life, relieve pain and suffering and prevent any deterioration of the dog’s condition. Anyone can carry out First Aid to an animal as long as it is within the boundaries and limitations of The Veterinary Surgeons Act 1966 and is limited to the above aims only. On the other hand, it is illegal to treat someone else’s dog for a medical condition for example, if you are not a Veterinary Surgeon.

    Canine First Aid training will cover subjects from bleeding, shock, road traffic accidents, hyperthermia, stings, seizures, CPR and bandaging.

    There a many learning opportunities to choose from and it may be difficult to choose the correct learning platform. A good guide to choosing a course that is going to be of most use and teach you fully:

    • Choose a tutor that works in Veterinary Practice and/or is a Registered Veterinary Professional with The Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons. They have real- life and frontline experience of emergency situations and can draw on this to educate you to the best level. Be careful of Human First Aid led Courses, they may not have the experience of such emergencies to tutor to the required level or answer obscure questions.
    • Choose a course run in a small group. This maximises interaction and learning. Large groups and PowerPoint presentations reduce that personal feel and discussion based learning.
    • Choose a course that uses real dogs for the practical bandaging as this gives you experience of a dog moving and you learn the anatomical points on the dog to aid successful bandaging. You will also get to experience what a real pulse feels like.
    • Be wary of courses that advertise that you will be a qualified First Aider after the course, this is usually a self certification and not with a governing body. Human First Aid companies often advertise that it is a recognised course but generally is recognised by a human first aid governing body not a pet related or veterinary one.

    Rachel Bean is a Qualified Veterinary Nurse and has worked in Veterinary Practice for 18 years. She is a listed and Registered Veterinary Nurse with The Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons.

    Rachel is also the consultant behaviourist at the Northwest newest and largest Canine Hydrotherapy Centre, K9 Swim. She won Pet Health Counsellor of the Year in 2004 and has a certificate in Companion Animal Behaviour issued by The British Veterinary Nursing Association.

    Web: www.rachelbean.co.uk | Facebook: Canine First Aid Workshops

    Find Rachel’s Canine First Aid workshop at Enjoy Your Dog on our Events page!